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 品項資料 : 奧地利克羅采酒莊 Alois Kracher(寶黴甜白酒)

今日 Kracher 已成世界公認之最佳甜白酒之一,四度榮獲 Wine Magazine 之年度最佳甜白酒釀酒師及多項國際大獎(1994、1997、1998 及 1998 年份)。




千湖區(Seewinkel)位於奧地利著名之寶黴甜白酒產區 Burgenland,約 20 公里寬,自 Neusiedl 湖東岸延伸至匈牙利邊境:Illmitz、Apetlon 及 Podersdor 村的濕地為一天然保護區及小湖星羅棋布的平原。最大的 Neusiedl 湖深度不及 5 呎,瀰漫的濃霧更增添了本區的神秘。由於湖水的調節,減輕了大陸型氣候的夏暑冬寒,成為適合栽植葡萄的環境。秋涼時湖水蒸散而成之霧氣,籠罩本區直至正午,此時陽光可透射而過。此種日間氣候變化為貴腐菌生成之絕佳環境,亦為上蒼賜予本區年年產製「逐粒精選」(Beerenauslese, BA)及「枯藤精選」(Trockenbeerenauslese, TBA)之珍貴禮物。


Alois Kracher 先生於 1981 年由其父 Sr. Critics 手中承繼本酒莊時便立下宏願,要使本區之甜白酒臻於世界最高品質。1991 為此一甜酒之超級年份,使其於國際上聲名大噪。今日 Kracher 已成世界公認之最佳甜白酒之一,四度榮獲 Wine Magazine 之年度最佳甜白酒釀酒師及多項國際大獎(1994、1997、1998 及 1998 年份)。但 Kracher 卻謙虛的將之歸功於葡萄園之品質,特殊的氣候以及父親的指導。

本酒莊葡萄園僅 10 餘公頃,由老園主負責栽植傳統之 Welschriesling、Chardonnay、Traminner、Pinot Blanc 及 Schenrebe 品種。收成時由小園主負責,他以兩種方法釀酒:傳統式以300公升洋槐(Acacia)木桶,強調果味及爽口,酒精度約 10%,含糖量可達每公升 250g,此一傳統結構甜酒稱為 "Zwischen de Seen" 意為「湖間」。另一為較國際化,類似波爾多蘇玳區之甜白酒,稱 "Nouvelle Vague" 意為「新潮」,酒精度約 13% 在法國橡木桶陳年. Kracher 已成炙手可熱之酒莊。小園主精心釀製濃郁與細緻間自然平衡之甜酒,如其最喜愛之 7 號酒(號數越大表越濃郁)便為 Chardonnay 及 Welschriesling 兩品種調製而成。前者如同蘇玳區(Sauternes)之 Sémillon 提供濃郁度,後者則有 Sauvignon 之功能(或 Tokay 中之Harslevelu)提供酸度。他用 Scheurebe 品種葡萄釀出豐富果味及香料味,而 Traminer 更提供異國香料香氣。


克羅采為貝多芬兩大小提琴奏鳴曲之一,謹以此獻給愛酒人仕。Kracher 已擠身倫敦CHRISTIE'S 國際拍賣會,極具收藏價值。





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