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 品項資料 : 匈牙利歐瑞姆 Oremus KFT 酒園 - 拓凱酒 TOKAJI 簡介

法王路易十四曾如此描述此酒:“Le Roi des Vins et le Vin des Rois”,意思是「酒之王,王之酒。」







法王路易十四曾如此描述此酒:"Le Roi des Vins et le Vin des Rois.",意思是「酒之王,王之酒。」


傳奇性的拓凱區在匈牙利東北部有悠久顯赫的歷史,根據文獻的記載,早在西元 1650 年本區即有貴腐酒的釀造,這比起德國的約翰山堡整整早了一百年。拓凱酒於 18 世紀即流行於法國宮廷,其後並傳至俄國皇室,不僅王公貴胄,文人雅士亦爭相競飲。大文豪伏爾泰及音樂家舒伯特都以愛飲拓凱酒出名。連素不嗜酒的納粹獨裁者希特勒,亦與其新婚夫人伊娃在自殺前喝了最後一杯拓凱酒,可見拓凱酒名聲之響亮。而阿素寶黴精華酒(Aszú Essencia)更有「回春酒」之稱。


在共產政權垮台後,拓凱區再度重返歐洲舞台,譽為知名度最低之經典產區。近年來歐洲釀酒業者蜂湧而至,將本區之潛能迅速開發。其中佼佼者如西班牙國寶酒廠維加•西西利亞酒園,於 1993 併購位於本區心臟的 Tolcsva 村中 65 公頃最高等級葡萄園,及地下五層長達數公里人工開鑿之火成岩地窖,酒窖自 12 世紀以來即為存放 136 公升及 220 公升橡木桶最佳場所。


釀酒師 Lajos Kun 在新東家的經營下,葡萄使用以傳統富香料味之 Furmint 品種為主,加上 Harslevelu 及 Muskat Lunel 品種,此一品種使用的鐵三角如同蘇玳區之 Sauvignon Blanc、Sémillon 及 Muscadelle。實際上本區亦有試種 Sauvignon Blanc 及 Traminer。


"Aszú" 匈牙利文即「沾染貴腐霉的葡萄」的意思,經嚴格品管照顧而達所需的含糖量。Tokaji Aszú 有著獨特的製程,經人工採摘的 Aszú 葡萄以一桶 22 公斤的 Puttonyos 裝盛,這些 Aszú 葡萄被做成像餅一樣的形式;沒有沾染貴腐菌的葡萄則以一般的方式採收並榨汁,接著將 Aszú 餅加入果汁中混和,經幾日的開蓋浸泡後,進行過濾並放入一種叫 "Gönci" 的 136 公升裝木桶中開始長達 4 到 6 年的發酵與培養。攝氏 8 到 12 度的低溫發酵醞釀出 Tokaji 獨特的風格。


與西班牙的雪利酒和法國的黃酒一樣,Tokaji 在釀造過程可以在酒液上發現一層酵母菌形成的酒花,它扮演著重要的氧化控制角色,並給予酒特殊的風味。


在 Tokaji aszú 酒標上可以看到 3∼6 不等的 Puttonyos 標示,這表示這瓶酒加入了多少 Puttonyos(桶) 的Aszú 葡萄。其中如 6 Puttonyos 酒之最低法定含糖量為每公升 150 克,及 45 克之懸浮物,並至少 8 年的木桶陳年。


Tokaji Essencia 更是不惜成本地完全採用 Aszú 葡萄釀製,葡萄收成後一樣放入 "Gönci" 木桶,果實的重量迫使果汁自然流出,如蜂蜜般濃稠的高糖份葡萄汁經過數年的酒精發酵還達不到一般白酒的度數,陳放數年才裝瓶。



 Chef 發佈於 2001-12-11 14:00:00

 

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